Germany's largest wine region was once its most notorious — the heartland of sugary Liebfraumilch and bulk Müller-Thurgau. Then a generation of young growers, many around the villages of the red-slate Roter Hang above the Rhine, reinvented it, and Rheinhessen is now one of the most dynamic fine-wine regions in the country.
Its steep riverside sites make Rieslings of power and mineral depth to rival any in Germany, while the gentle loess hills inland turn out an ocean of everything from crisp Silvaner to serious Pinot. From punchline to pace-setter in a single generation, Rheinhessen is German wine's great modern comeback.