A green bowl in the mountains of León, crossed by the Camino francés to Santiago. Rome mined gold next door at Las Médulas, carving the hills into the red badlands that still overlook the vines; in the Middle Ages, monasteries such as Carracedo tended viticulture for the passing pilgrims.
What history left behind was old Mencía on slate, divided into thousands of minifundio parcels barely bigger than gardens. In 1999 Álvaro Palacios and his nephew Ricardo Pérez arrived at Corullón, farming the steep village slopes by mule and bottling them separately — and Bierzo, half-forgotten, was recast as Spain's "Atlantic Burgundy": cool, perfumed, parcel by parcel, a counterpoint to the country's sun-heavy reds.