The holy land of terroir. From Cîteaux, founded in 1098, the monks walled, named and tasted the vineyards of the Côte d'Or into a map of climats — inscribed by UNESCO in 2015 — where two grapes are made to say a thousand different things. Philip the Bold banished the "disloyal" Gamay in 1395 to keep the slope for Pinot Noir.
The Revolution sold off the Church's vineyards and the Napoleonic code of equal inheritance kept dividing them, until the fifty hectares of Clos de Vougeot had some eighty owners. Burgundy is that mosaic: a narrow limestone escarpment where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir achieve, wall by wall, the most precise expression of place in wine.