The Ebro valley, sheltered from Atlantic rain by the Sierra de Cantabria and warmed by the Mediterranean up the river: a corridor made for the vine. The Camino de Santiago carried monks, pilgrims and vine-growing through it; the monastery of San Millán preserved some of the first written words of the Spanish language.
When oidium and then phylloxera ruined Bordeaux, its merchants crossed the Pyrenees and taught Rioja the barrique; bodegas rose around Haro's railway station — the Barrio de la Estación, still the densest cluster of great wineries in Spain. Tempranillo, aged long in American oak, made the classic style; in 1991 Rioja became Spain's first DOCa.