Catalan in language and spirit, the Roussillon presses against the Pyrenees at France's southern edge — a furnace of schist and granite where old bush-vine Grenache and Carignan yield tiny crops of intense, sun-drenched wine. Its historic glory is the vin doux naturel: fortified sweet wines like Banyuls and Maury, aged oxidatively into something between Port and Madeira.
For a century those sweet wines were its whole economy; now a wave of growers has turned the same old vines to dry reds and whites of remarkable concentration and mineral drive. Long lumped in with the Languedoc, the Roussillon has emerged as one of France's most distinctive and dramatic terroirs.