Squeezed between the Atlantic and the hills of the Dão, damp, limestone Bairrada is Baga country — a tannic, high-acid red grape that in a cool year can be austere and in a warm one magnificent, ageing for decades into something like old-school Barolo. It also makes fine traditional-method sparkling on the same chalky clay.
For years its difficult grape and rainy climate kept it in the shadows, but a devoted group of growers has learned to coax elegance and depth from Baga, making Bairrada one of Portugal's most characterful and improving regions — the source of some of its most distinctive fine reds.