The heel of the Italian boot has grown wine since the Greek settlers of Magna Graecia; Horace praised the wine of Tarentum. For roughly a century, Puglia was Europe's tank: oceans of dark Primitivo and Negroamaro travelled north to deepen thinner wines — much of it, discreetly, to France after phylloxera had emptied its cellars.
Two things turned the anonymous south into an export name. DNA analysis in 1994 proved that Primitivo and California's Zinfandel are the same grape, giving the region a story the American market already knew; and the old alberello bush vines of Manduria and the Salento — low, dry-farmed, planted for concentration rather than volume — turned out to be exactly what modern taste wanted.