Tokaj was the first wine region in the world to be classified and delimited: its vineyards were ranked by 1730, and a royal decree of 1737 closed the region's boundaries — more than a century before Bordeaux's 1855 list. Its aszú wines earned the motto "vinum regum, rex vinorum" — wine of kings, king of wines — and travelled to the courts of Europe.
Beneath the villages run labyrinthine cellars cut into volcanic tuff, their walls velvet-black with the Cladosporium mould that lives on the wine's evaporation. Communism turned the region to volume; since 1990 replanting and investment have restored the great vineyards, UNESCO inscribed the cultural landscape in 2002, and alongside the near-immortal sweet aszú a renaissance of dry Furmint has given Tokaj a second voice.