In 1395 Philip the Bold banished Gamay from Burgundy as a "very disloyal plant", and the grape took refuge just to the south, on the pink granite hills between the Mâconnais and Lyon. It has never left: goblet-trained bush vines, pruned low against the granite, still cover almost the whole region, and Lyon has long claimed to be watered by three rivers — the Rhône, the Saône and the Beaujolais.
In the late twentieth century Beaujolais Nouveau, rushed to market on the third Thursday of November, carried the name around the world before cheapening it; the boom's aftermath brought falling prices and uprooted vines. The revival has come from the ten northern crus — Morgon, Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent among them — where old vines on granite prove that Gamay can be as serious as it is joyful.