Ringed by mountains that shelter it from both the Atlantic and the summer heat, the granite plateau of the Dão makes the most elegant reds in Portugal — perfumed, fresh and finely structured, the country's answer to Burgundy in poise if not in grape. Touriga Nacional finds one of its greatest homes here, giving wines of violet, mountain herb and firm, ageworthy tannin.
Long held back by a heavy-handed cooperative system, the Dão was transformed once private estates were allowed to bottle their own wine again. Cool, high and slow-ripening, it is increasingly seen as the source of Portugal's most refined and long-lived table reds.