The upper valley of the Rhône, where the young river runs between walls of mountain and the vines climb with it: at Visperterminen they reach some 1,100 metres, among the highest vineyards in Europe. So little rain falls in this sheltered trench that medieval farmers cut the bisses — irrigation channels carried along cliff faces — and many still water the terraces today.
The Valais grows an extraordinary hoard of native varieties — petite arvine, cornalin, humagne — alongside chasselas and pinot noir, and its syrah ripens on the same river that makes the grape famous three hundred kilometres downstream. Switzerland drinks nearly all of it itself, which is why the outside world knows so little of one of the Alps' great vineyards.