Syrah was born here: DNA analysis in 1998 identified its parents as Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche, two old varieties of these same valleys. The Romans of Vienne were already shipping their vinum picatum — "pitched wine" — across the empire, and the terraces cut into the granite above the river are still worked by hand, from Côte-Rôtie down to Cornas.
It is a small country — a tenth the size of the southern Rhône — strung along a narrow ribbon of steep riverbank where the gneiss and mica-schist admit only hand labour. At its centre rises the hill of Hermitage, crowned by its little chapel; around it, from Saint-Joseph to Cornas, Syrah on granite sets a model that the grape's plantings across the world still follow.