Italy's wealthy north-central region is a study in contrasts. On the moraine hills around Lake Iseo, Franciacorta makes the country's finest traditional-method sparkling wine — Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, aged on the lees, a serious rival to Champagne. High in the Alps, the vertiginous terraces of the Valtellina coax mountain Nebbiolo into pale, perfumed reds.
Between them lie the shores of Lake Garda and a scatter of lesser-known appellations. It is a region defined less by one style than by its extremes — the polish of Franciacorta and the alpine austerity of Valtellina — both made in the shadow of Milan's demanding market.