Under these vineyards at Baños de Valdearados lies a sixty-six metre Roman mosaic of Bacchus — proof that wine was at home on the high Duero long before the medieval villages that supplied the Castilian court dug their cellars into the hillsides. Then came centuries of obscurity, broken by a single anomaly: Vega Sicilia, founded in 1864, which made Spain's most storied wine in near isolation for a hundred years.
The appellation itself arrived only in 1982, with nine bodegas. What followed was one of the fastest ascents in modern wine: Tempranillo — here called tinto fino — grown at 800 metres, with brutal frosts and cold nights, made Ribera into Rioja's great rival: sterner, darker, higher.