On the steep shale slopes above New York's deep glacial lakes, whose waters buffer the ferocious continental winters, the Finger Lakes have become America's finest cool-climate Riesling region. The wines are vivid and racy — dry to off-dry, all lime, green apple and slate — with a piercing acidity closer to the Mosel than to California.
Long a land of sweet hybrid wines, the region was transformed by growers who bet on European vinifera and above all on Riesling. Small, northern and utterly distinctive, the Finger Lakes are the East Coast's answer to fine cool-climate white wine.