For most of its history the grape was simply called Prosecco, after a village near Trieste at the eastern end of its arc; it is an old variety of the hills of the Veneto and Friuli. In 2009 grape and place were divorced by decree: the variety was renamed Glera so that "Prosecco" could become protected geography — a denomination rather than a plant.
Green apple, pear and white flowers, modest alcohol, gentle acidity — a profile made for the tank method Federico Martinotti devised in the 1890s, which keeps the fruit forward and the price kind. The steep Conegliano–Valdobbiadene hills entered UNESCO's World Heritage list in 2019, while the wine itself, in the meantime, conquered the planet.