In the granite hills of Gallura, in Sardinia's wild north, Vermentino makes its finest wine — and holds Italy's only white DOCG. The maritime wind and decomposed-granite soils give a white of real intensity: lemon and wild herb, a saline snap and the grape's characteristic bitter-almond finish.
Everywhere else on the Mediterranean coast Vermentino is a pleasant, breezy summer white; here in Gallura it gains weight, structure and a mineral cut that set it apart. It is the sea-scented signature white of Sardinia.