Sweet white

Commandaria

Robe — Dark amber shading to antique bronze

  • raisin
  • date
  • honey
  • coffee
  • dried fig
Palate
Densely sweet and raisined, carried by a surprising thread of freshness
Ageing
Decades; effectively immortal in cask
Serving
10–13 °C, in small glasses at the end of the meal

Commandaria is the world's oldest named wine still in production. Hesiod described the method around 700 BC — grapes sun-dried on mats to concentrate their sugar — for the Cypriot wine then called nama. The name came later, from the Grande Commanderie of the Knights of St John at Kolossi, whose estates traded the wine across medieval Europe.

Richard the Lionheart, marrying at Limassol in 1191, is said to have called it "the wine of kings and the king of wines" — the attribution is legend, the reputation was real. Made today from Xynisteri and Mavro dried in the September sun of the Troodos foothills, it remains amber-dark, raisined, honeyed and low-key immortal: antiquity's dessert, never discontinued.

The blend

A typical modern composition

Where it is made

Producers

A few estates working in this style today — a sample, not a ranking

Through time

Indicative presence index, 0–100Origins & Antiquity — 45The Monastic Middle Ages — 45Exploration & the Fortified Age — 25Classifications & the Golden Age — 15Phylloxera & the World Crises — 10The Modern & New World Era — 25Antiquity45500150017001875195025